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Building a Post Frame Home | Window Installation | Remington | Part 13

Updated: 22 hours ago

Welcome back to the Remington build! The Remington is a 1600 sq ft custom post frame home on a continuous ICF foundation. Let's get down to business – we're about to tackle the intricacies of new construction window installation, specifically in the context of a post-frame home. However, keep in mind that these procedures can be used in virtually any new construction.


For those following our previous episodes, you're familiar with our approach of tilting the bottom sill by two to three degrees. This thoughtful technique ensures that in the unfortunate event of a window failure, it'll make contact with our window flash and easily drain downward. This protects your wood from any rotting. Now, let's delve into the details of this project.


Our tool of choice for this job is the Zip flashing tape, a nine-inch adhesive that has proven effective for our team. While there are multiple options available, we find the Zip tape's stickiness and reliability to be unparalleled. It is super easy to use and is still super sticky even in cold temperatures. 


Our initial move is to apply the flashing meticulously on the bottom sill, extending it up the sides for a modest four to six inches. While the Zip tape is flexible, we take a prudent step by adding a few extra pieces in the corners for enhanced protection. Small cut pieces are strategically angled and pressed into place, fortifying these vulnerable areas.


Working with this sticky Zip tape, especially on a day with brisk winds and high temperatures, requires us to be very careful. Align it meticulously with the inside edge of the sill, peeling it back methodically. Then every so often we check for tears in the paper and ensure it's all removed for optimal adhesion. 


After we are sure our corners are reinforced, a clean cut straight from each corner is made, and a roller is employed to ensure secure tape adhesion. While some might argue the necessity of rolling in warm conditions, we find it to be a good practice for ensuring a solid bond no matter the weather.


Now, let's shift our attention to vinyl windows. These windows, typically welded in the corners, come with small tabs that need attention. A razor blade or file is what I usually use to smooth these tabs, ensuring seamless integration with J-channel trim.


With the window ready to be set, it's time to apply silicone along the sides and across the top. We usually don’t use silicon on the bottom, and if we do we place it sparingly with large gaps between sections. By omitting silicone at the bottom, we ensure that if the window fails, water can find its way out over the house wrap and down the side.


As we place the window In a snug rough opening, we need to make sure it is level. We can achieve this with shims. Once we have ensured the window is plumb and square, we secure it in place with nails or screws, with screws providing the advantage of easy adjustments if needed.


Once the window is secure, we go in with some flashing and block-it tape on the top and on the sides to secure the house wrap back down and create a better seal around the window. Then inside work begins with the application of spray foam along the cracks. Eventually, trim will complete the installation, providing a polished look to our carefully insulated window.


And there you have it, a comprehensive guide to window insulation. For those craving more in-depth insights, head over to our Patreon group, where we really dive into specific topics each month. Thanks for sticking around and we hope you found this to be helpful!


Thank you,

MR Post Frame



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