Hey everyone! Today, I want to take you inside to show you the progress we've made on the wiring so far. Let’s dive in!
First up, here’s the main panel and all the home runs we’ve done so far. These home runs are primarily for the upstairs area. We decided to use two-inch EMT conduit out of the box, which includes some LB elbows—the ones that can be opened up. These run through the plywood and spray foam insulation to ensure all home runs go from this box up to the floor joists.
I designed this setup so that the floor joists start right about here and end up there. This design allows HVAC runs to go through easily, while the electrical runs up into the ceiling joist. I'll show you the other side in a moment, but it's important to note that you can run Romex in EMT, just not as much as you would if everything were run in THHN wire.
The main purpose of this setup is to keep the wires protected, especially since this is a utility room. I like the clean look it provides, which you’ll see more clearly when we head upstairs. On the other side, you'll see how the Romex runs from the box up through the wall in an orderly fashion.
Here’s the backside, where you can see we’re inside the floor joists. The two two-inch EMTs elbow into this space, allowing the wires to pass through cleanly. We've done the home runs for the upstairs here, and another pipe goes up into the garage attic for additional wiring. The Romex runs down below the joists and along the high joists, popping up into the ceiling in some areas, making for a tidy install that won't interfere with any ductwork.
Upstairs, I’ve mounted all the boxes. One of our viewers pointed out an issue in the last video: I had marked this box wrong, placing it facing the shower. I’ve corrected that now. Here’s one of the home runs that comes up into the box. For those wondering, I typically mount switches 46 inches to the bottom of the box and outlets 16 inches to the bottom. This way, everything stays within code.
We also make sure that outlets are close enough together to meet code, which states that a six-foot cord should always be able to reach a plug. We’re putting lights in all the closets with switches, even if they’re not walk-in closets, because it makes a big difference.
All the home runs land in switch boxes, keeping everything consistent. By doing this, I’ll always know where the main power source is for each room. We started by marking and mounting all the boxes, ensuring we have enough to be within code. Then we drilled holes and pulled all the home runs.
Next, I need to mount the ceiling fan boxes and install can lights in the closets and hallways. Each bedroom will have a ceiling fan and can lights, and the big room will have a giant ceiling fan and more can lights. I’ll be using homemade bracing for the ceiling fans because it’s cost-effective and just as strong as pre-made metal ones.
To find the center of the room, I marked it on the floor and used the Stabila LAX 350 laser. This helps ensure my box is centered and mounted correctly. Once the board is mounted, I align the box to hang a half-inch below the ceiling joist to account for drywall.
I mounted the board securely, marked the center, and installed the box with a ground wire. I’ll repeat this process for the other rooms. For shallow closets, I cheat the lights towards the front to ensure they illuminate the space well, even with clothes hanging.
When wiring, it’s crucial to consider where the plumbing will go to avoid conflicts. I marked areas where vents will be to keep wiring clear. Also, during framing, nail where the studs are to avoid hitting nails when drilling holes for wiring or plumbing later. This saves time and frustration for anyone working on the house.
I hope these tips are helpful! I’ll be sharing more updates as we continue, so stay tuned. If you have any questions, drop them in the comments, and I’ll try to get answers for you. Thanks for watching, and see you in the next video!
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