Yes, our concrete supplier and finisher uses fiberglass rebar. They are one of the top companies in our area and we haven't had issues with them using fiberglass.

I ringshank nail them with 4.5” nails and I would either put 1/2” through bolts or a couple of structural lags in them. I have a video covering fastener locations:

From my experiences if it’s going to be a livable space I would plywood the roof, I’m fine with just the metal on the sidewalls as long as closed cell spray foam will be used as the insulation. The reason for the plywood sheathing on roof is it eliminates your condensation issue and adds rigidity to your roof. Also makes attaching any flashings for any penetration much easier. As far as sidewalls the steel provides the shear strength so I’m good with no plywood sheathing. The closed cell spray foam seals up the house and keeps bugs from getting in your walls. If using bat insulation I would want plywood sheathing. With all that being said my house has no sheathing on the roof or sidewalls and it’s performing just fine. My one regret is not putting sheathing on my roof.

I’m assuming you are talking about inside the garages? 3 or 4” pvc will work fine. As far as the actual trench drain the length depends on how much area you want to cover. The ACO drains are awesome but very expensive. I think the last one we did was roughly 30’ and it cost around $6k. Yikes. They have other alternatives available so I guess it just depends on what they are worth to you. I have round drains in my garage but for a shop space I would spend more money on a better trench drain. You could also form up some concrete trenches and just by metal grates as well. I think that’s what I will do in my shop because I don’t think I could talk my other half into the ACO drains.

Yes that is usually very expensive. I have an electrician that allows me to trench and run the wire and then he hooks it up to the transformer. I’m not allowed by code to hook up to the transformer in my area. By doing this he tells me what size wire which for most residential would be a 4/0 direct bury line. Then I order it and rent a trencher. Where we live the electrical company comes and installs the transformer either on the pole or ground depending on the application which is controlled by them. And they charge a set fee here which is usually a couple thousand bucks!!!

I have just installed two separate units from Radiant Tec and both worked fine. I have one video on one of the installs from them. I’m currently working on my own line of in floor heat systems but it will be a bit before I have it going. RadianTec Unit Install https://youtu.be/xoRifCLNvVw

It depends on the sheathing you are using and what the manufacturer recommends. Some sheathing is cut an 1/8” shorter that what it is supposed to be so you can still make your on center layout. For example a 4x8’ sheet of sheathing that requires a gap will actually come 47 7/8” x 95 7/8. Hopefully this helps. H clips will show through most metal. I do not use them on any roof I’m putting metal panels on. My personal preference.

If you have brackets you could get your grade stick to where it needs to be and then put a mark on the bracket which you could then measure from. If you are using dry sets you could get your grade stick to where it needs to be and have someone hold a board on the footing and then make a mark on your board giving you the extra length you would need to add. Hopefully that makes sense.

They make shallow round metal boxes that we will recess in a girt. Here is an example of what I use. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lighting-and-electrical/boxes-fittings-and-conduit/boxes/36491?store=17656&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4uCcBhDdARIsAH5jyUlp13r5ABTMckQlgjXmoj01mFGEBpsXAy7IQULJ6wPw9QD-8XyNHnkaAkMPEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I have been there before. You have a couple options. If you watch our last video on youtube you will see how i did it when i hit rock. This could get expensive as i used two sono tubes for one hole. The other way is to lay 2x4's across the top of the hole, use stakes to hold them in place and then then screw your sono tube to the 2x4's. Neither way is easy. Couple of layout and pier videos https://youtu.be/IATSznaTClE https://youtu.be/uNgCZvOyYUc

If you have access to plenty of wood I would go with a wood fired boiler. I have been able to negotiate reasonable pricing on propane, so hasn't been too bad for me. I just don't have enough wood for that and a wood stove. Suggested boilers from Jamison: I have thought about that but the cost is like 10k and you have to go out side. Look at these https://www.mbtek.com/collections/wood-boiler I plan on using this in the future for my two shops and heating my pool someday . I called my insurance guy and asked him if it would cost more to have inside boilers and he said is was negligible on price

You can but causes more work and stress. We've had to pump our pier holes out...makes it a little more stressful.

I do carry insurance on my builds as liability, but the home owner still needs to get a builders risk policy which covers catastrophic loss. Builders risk policy is based on the value of the materials so as more is completed the more it costs.

We follow the install instructions and guidelines provided by Midwest Perma-Column who manufacturers the brackets. It isn't required but don't think it would hurt to add.

The concrete company for our builds uses fiberglass rebar and hasn't had any issues. They are one of the best in the state of Iowa. We haven't seen any issues with our builds and its much easier to handle.

I have not done any builds with steel trusses. If we need a truss that is a steeper pitch we just custom order wood trusses. Wood is what I prefer for the way we build. It can be done but there will just be additional steps that you will have to take depending on how you intend to frame it. What you want can be achieved with wood trusses as well.

Order the doors with the thickness of the jam and I order them with the brick mould. So I use exterior and interior girts so I end up with roughly 8 1/4” jams.

I recommend that you put marks on your sheets where purlins are and then use a yard stick. If using sheathing and synthetic paper I mark the purlin locations and snap a chalk line.

It’s a pain. I try and break it up with auger and then fish pieces out that stop the auger from turning. It’s not fun. May need to find an excavation contractor.